Installing electrical boxes is both fun and functional. Fixtures can give houses an extra “umph”. However, one has to be very careful when installing them. Follow the instructions below to achieve a safe and solid job.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED: Electrical Box Voltmeter Stud finder Laser Level Jig Saw Hammer Screw driver (Phillips and/or Flat head) Electricians Pliers Ladder
STEP 1:
To prepare for your installation, take a trip down to the hardware and purchase the number of boxes you need. Keep in mind the job that you have to do; the type of box will depend on whether you're installing in a new area or remodelling. For example, boxes that are going to be used in new construction come with nails to attach the box to a wall stud. Remodelling boxes will generally have securing "fins" at two or more corners of the box. If you are using prefabricated construction, there are electrical boxes made specifically for those types of construction. Act wisely and see your material dealer for details. As Toronto Electricians, this are also the best practices that made us better.
STEP 2:
When you are getting ready to do the installation, you need to mark the location for your new electrical box. Next, be sure to clear the area of furniture or other objects that could hinder safety or access and waste no time in locating the electrical panel feeding the area as well as the circuit breaker feeding the circuit to which you are adding the new box. You will want to TURN OFF the circuit breaker feeding the area. Check to see if the power is off by using a voltmeter to verify zero volts to the circuit. Then, start your installation.
STEP 3:
If you are installing your box on the wall, you need to define the height requirements. There are different codes within different municipalities. General numbers are as follows: general receptacles should be 14 to 16 inches above the floor; switches, kitchen receptacles and garage receptacles should be 46 to 48 inches above the floor; and vanity receptacles should be 42 to 44 inches above the floor.
STEP 4:
Be sure that everything is aligned. You will want to attach a laser level to a wall stud upstream of the wall box at the proper height to align all boxes being installed then attach the electrical box to a wall stud by hammering the attaching nails on the box into the wall stud. Align the top of the box with the laser level line and attach the box so that the front edge of the box protrudes beyond the stud by the thickness of the wall to be installed.
STEP 5:
Next, you need to punch the required number of knockout plugs from the electrical box depending on whether the circuit will end at the single box or be daisy-chained and install a rubber grommet around the inside of each knockout (if using a metal box).
STEP 6:
Run the correct size wire into the grommeted hole and prepare the wire using electrician's pliers. If device installation is not taking place immediately, it is best not to prepare the wire--coil the wire inside the box and attach a cover to prevent accidental access.
STEP 7:
For wall wall box installations in an existing area you need to attach a laser level to the wall to align the new electrical box with the existing boxes. Use a stud finder to locate a hollow area between wall studs to mount the box.
STEP 8:
Use the template provided with the box to trace a cutting pattern on the wall, making sure to align the top of the template to the laser level line, then use a jigsaw to cut a hole in the wall, using the tracing as your guide. Punch the required number of knockout plugs from the electrical box before inserting the box into the wall. Grommet the holes (if using a metal box) and pull the wire into the box. Insert the electrical box inside the hole until it stops. A small ridge on the front edge of the box will keep the box from going through the hole and will aid in securing the box to the wall.
STEP 9:
Use a screwdriver to turn the "fin" screws clockwise on each corner of the box until tight. This will turn the "fins" outward to press against the back side of the wall, securing the box to the wall. Complete the installation as previously outlined.
STEP10:
When installing ceiling boxes for fans or other heavy fixtures you need to purchase an electrical box made specifically to hold heavy objects (joist-mounted). The assembly will have rails that fit between the ceiling joists and can be either attached (new construction) or pressed (remodel) between the joists. The electrical box will hang off the rail assembly so that the fixture weight will be supported by the ceiling joists and not the ceiling.
STEP11:
Use the correct size ladder to reach the ceiling height for which you are working. Then secure the joist attachment so that the electrical box will be flush with the installed or existing ceiling. Complete installation as previously outlined for either new construction or remodel.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED: Electrical Box Voltmeter Stud finder Laser Level Jig Saw Hammer Screw driver (Phillips and/or Flat head) Electricians Pliers Ladder
STEP 1:
To prepare for your installation, take a trip down to the hardware and purchase the number of boxes you need. Keep in mind the job that you have to do; the type of box will depend on whether you're installing in a new area or remodelling. For example, boxes that are going to be used in new construction come with nails to attach the box to a wall stud. Remodelling boxes will generally have securing "fins" at two or more corners of the box. If you are using prefabricated construction, there are electrical boxes made specifically for those types of construction. Act wisely and see your material dealer for details. As Toronto Electricians, this are also the best practices that made us better.
STEP 2:
When you are getting ready to do the installation, you need to mark the location for your new electrical box. Next, be sure to clear the area of furniture or other objects that could hinder safety or access and waste no time in locating the electrical panel feeding the area as well as the circuit breaker feeding the circuit to which you are adding the new box. You will want to TURN OFF the circuit breaker feeding the area. Check to see if the power is off by using a voltmeter to verify zero volts to the circuit. Then, start your installation.
STEP 3:
If you are installing your box on the wall, you need to define the height requirements. There are different codes within different municipalities. General numbers are as follows: general receptacles should be 14 to 16 inches above the floor; switches, kitchen receptacles and garage receptacles should be 46 to 48 inches above the floor; and vanity receptacles should be 42 to 44 inches above the floor.
STEP 4:
Be sure that everything is aligned. You will want to attach a laser level to a wall stud upstream of the wall box at the proper height to align all boxes being installed then attach the electrical box to a wall stud by hammering the attaching nails on the box into the wall stud. Align the top of the box with the laser level line and attach the box so that the front edge of the box protrudes beyond the stud by the thickness of the wall to be installed.
STEP 5:
Next, you need to punch the required number of knockout plugs from the electrical box depending on whether the circuit will end at the single box or be daisy-chained and install a rubber grommet around the inside of each knockout (if using a metal box).
STEP 6:
Run the correct size wire into the grommeted hole and prepare the wire using electrician's pliers. If device installation is not taking place immediately, it is best not to prepare the wire--coil the wire inside the box and attach a cover to prevent accidental access.
STEP 7:
For wall wall box installations in an existing area you need to attach a laser level to the wall to align the new electrical box with the existing boxes. Use a stud finder to locate a hollow area between wall studs to mount the box.
STEP 8:
Use the template provided with the box to trace a cutting pattern on the wall, making sure to align the top of the template to the laser level line, then use a jigsaw to cut a hole in the wall, using the tracing as your guide. Punch the required number of knockout plugs from the electrical box before inserting the box into the wall. Grommet the holes (if using a metal box) and pull the wire into the box. Insert the electrical box inside the hole until it stops. A small ridge on the front edge of the box will keep the box from going through the hole and will aid in securing the box to the wall.
STEP 9:
Use a screwdriver to turn the "fin" screws clockwise on each corner of the box until tight. This will turn the "fins" outward to press against the back side of the wall, securing the box to the wall. Complete the installation as previously outlined.
STEP10:
When installing ceiling boxes for fans or other heavy fixtures you need to purchase an electrical box made specifically to hold heavy objects (joist-mounted). The assembly will have rails that fit between the ceiling joists and can be either attached (new construction) or pressed (remodel) between the joists. The electrical box will hang off the rail assembly so that the fixture weight will be supported by the ceiling joists and not the ceiling.
STEP11:
Use the correct size ladder to reach the ceiling height for which you are working. Then secure the joist attachment so that the electrical box will be flush with the installed or existing ceiling. Complete installation as previously outlined for either new construction or remodel.
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